FCIP Returns From Mozambique
“Africa is addictive. It has a way of getting under your skin,” Fiona warned us enthusiastically, as we climbed into the bus. “Mozambique has its own awesome energy; a mix of Portuguese & Arab African. You won’t find anywhere else like it…”
It was an intriguing introduction to the warm, vibrant land where Natasha and
I would spend the next week.
We arrived in Maputo, Mozambique after traveling for 44 hours from ‘the other side of the world’ to participate in TechnoServe’s mentorship program. Falcon-Software’s latest project for FCIP Group, to build a website promoting tourism in northern Mozambique, would be part of TechnoServe’s efforts to bring sustainable economic benefits to poor rural communities. The goal of the website would be to supply information on Mozambique, its rich history and culture, suggest travel itineraries, and act as a central booking agent for the region’s lodges.
 For one week, Natasha Dilay, FCIP Group spokesperson, and I traveled to locations throughout northern Mozambique to meet the lodge owners and operators who would be key stakeholders in the project. Leslie Johnston, the program coordinator, as well as Kevin and Fiona Record, TechnoServe mentors and operators of Wildlife Adventure Safaris, accompanied us on our tour of this wild, unspoiled region of Africa.
The two-hour drive from the northern city of Nampula to Ilha de Moçambique took us through the beautiful rural countryside. It was rainy season and the small cornfields that stood adjacent to the mud and thatched roof houses had just started to show the cobs of corn and the local vegetation was lush. People gathered at a roadside market, although, at a glance there didn’t seem to be much for sale other than a few bicycle tires or colored plastic buckets. Every so often, we would pass someone relaxing in the shade of a baobab tree. The Mozambican peoples’ passion for life could be seen and heard on every street corner with the Arab and Latin influences creating a rhythm that added to the uniqueness of the culture and cuisine.
Ilha de Moçambique
Ilha de Moçambique, a UNESCO world heritage site, is a small island, accessible only by an ill-maintained, one-lane bridge, wide enough for a small truck and a maximum of two vehicles at one time. Sentries at either end of the 3 km bridge seemed to choreograph the flow of traffic with remarkable efficiency, seeing as the other end of the bridge was too far in the distance to be seen. Impressed, I asked “How do they communicate to each other when a car has started crossing?” “They don’t”, was Kevin’s confusing reply.
As we drove along the island’s southern coast, poverty was evident. Approximately 14,000 inhabitants live on small lots; there is no natural source of fresh water and there is a critical need for basic infrastructure. The north end of the island consists mostly of ancient buildings built by the Portuguese, which are in various states of ruin without windows or flooring.
Our first meeting was with Dona Flora, proprietor of Casa Branca. Dona Flora has restored an elegant, 400-year-old Portuguese colonial dwelling and, along with 7 other owners of local hotels and pensions, has recently started a grassroots organization to help promote tourism on “Ilha”. She is hopeful that a world-class website will enhance their efforts. Leslie translated from Portuguese, Dona’s native language; “We have to find a way to bring people to Ilha”. She went further to explain how tourism would cultivate jobs and economy and help fund much-needed infrastructure as well as restoration of the historical buildings.
 Later that day, we met George, who was painstakingly restoring a group of the island’s signature crumbling structures into a lovely pastel-hued boutique hotel. George gave us a tour of the site and spoke of plans for a beachside pool, restaurant and guest-lounge. He echoed Dona Flora’s thoughts, that in order for tourism to flourish in the area, they needed to find a way to attract visitors to Ilha and create linkages with other sites in the region. They need to promote activities, beyond visiting the lovely beaches and historical fortresses, such as fishing or snorkeling, to entice visitors to stay for more than a few days.
That evening, we walked through the narrow streets. Most of the buildings have been empty and left to the elements after the Portuguese left the country in 1975. Long creeping vines climb up the walls and huge roots wind through holes in the floors. Any visionary with a knack for inn keeping would beam at the potential that lies on Ilha. If the new website promoting northern Mozambique was successful, this potential could be realized and, through improved economy, the quality of lives of the local inhabitants could be improved.
I was amazed by the determination and resilience of people like Dona Flora and George. I was in awe of the passion they had for pioneering this industry and to use it as a way to uplift the community despite the struggles they faced from dwindling funds, lack of access to simple utilities, bureaucratic hurdles, the environment, and malaria.
 All week, we would meet more people like Dona Flora and George and would hear the same story, told by different storytellers. The optimism of the entrepreneurs that had recently embarked on their projects was evident; others, edged by their experiences, knew that for the projects they had invested their life savings in to survive and for the community to see the benefits, tourists had to come to Ilha de Moçambique. I was proud to be part of this grassroots effort and confident the FCIP website project would provide an invaluable tool in marketing this amazing part of the world.
On to Ibo Island and Cobué
From the tarmac of the tiny, dubious-looking Nacala airport, we nervously boarded the 7-seat USAID Cessna that would take us to even more remote locations in northern Mozambique. Our pilot was Bob, a trustworthy-looking, former Alaskan bush pilot. Bob smiled, and assured me that the skies ahead were clear and I wouldn’t be scared. Looking back, I am sure Bob was smiling because he knew I had never seen the landing strip at our next destination, Ibo Island.
Next Issue: Ibo Island and the Nkwichi Lodge
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